Have you tried Overlay Mosaic Crochet, but can’t quite get it to come out right? Well, there’s a fascinating crochet technique called Woven Crochet. It can look a lot like Overlay Mosaic Crochet, but it’s worked completely differently (and it’s quite fun)! It’s also reversible!!!
I was first introduced to this technique last year when an acquaintance showed me a hot pad/potholder that she had. I was intrigued by it and asked to borrow it. She said “yes” and I proceeded to analyze the hot pad to see how it was made. I found that the woven chains were continuous, not separate for each row, which made for WAY less ends to weave in, which I like!
On and off for the past year, I’ve been playing around with this technique and coming up with new Woven Crochet patterns for your enjoyment. And I decided to make a YouTube video demonstrating how to do Woven Crochet, to go along with the patterns. I’d like to introduce my new Woven Crochet patterns to you.
Persimmon Flower Woven Hot Pad & Coaster
Bullseye Woven Hot Pad & Coaster
Stairstep Woven Hot Pad & Coaster
Squares Woven Hot Pad & Coaster
Check out these new patterns here. If you purchase all 4 patterns, you can receive a $4.00 discount by entering the code “WovenCrochet” at checkout (code is valid indefinitely).
To learn how to do Woven Crochet, watch my free YouTube video.
I hope you enjoy learning this new (to me) crochet technique.
Introducing my Majestic Butterfly Afghan! This afghan was previously published many years ago by Annie’s, but has since been retired. I recently received the copyright back to this beauty, so I wanted to make the pattern available to other crocheters instead of it never being available again!
This beautiful afghan is made in the Intarsia Crochet technique with sc stitches used throughout. Another term that is used for this crochet technique is “graphghan”. In this afghan, the first and last 2 rows are worked in one color (black), but the rest of the rows are worked with color changes throughout. If you’re a fan of kits, the kit is available through Mary Maxim here.
There are at least 2 ways to work the color changes. All ways involve working the last stitch of one color until you have the last 2 loops on the hook like this: “insert hook in next stitch and draw up a loop, drop old color, yarn over with new color and draw through both loops on hook”. The different ways to work the Intarsia technique involve where to drop the old color. One way has the old color dropped to the front of the work, whether you’re working on a right-side row or a wrong-side row. The other way has the old color dropped to the wrong side of the work. That means you’ll be dropping the old color to the back of the work when working a right-side row and to the front of the work when working a wrong-side row.
The key to working intarsia crochet (or graphghans) is to use bobbins for each of the separate colors used in the rows. This helps keep the yarns from getting tangled across the rows. The bobbins can be nothing more than a simple DIY type made from cardboard. They can also be made from plastic, coming in many different shapes and sizes. You can also use clothespins of various sizes, made from various materials such as plastic or wood. I found a year or two ago at Dollar Tree. They were $1.25 for 6 of them. They can also be round, encasing the wound yarn inside them. Here are some examples of bobbins used for Intarsia Crochet:
Whichever type(s) of bobbins you use, you’ll need to wind them with the yarn colors you’ll be using. You can wind lots of yarn on each bobbin or figure out the amount of yarn needed for a certain section that will be worked with that color and only wind the amount of yarn you’ll need. The way I figure out the amount of yarn to use is by working a gauge swatch to know the number of sc stitches I get with the hook size I’ll be using. Then I count the number of squares of that color in the section I’ll be working on the chart and divide by the number of stitches I got to come up with the number of yards to wind on that bobbin. I ALWAYS add another 18” – 36” of yarn for wiggle room, as well as leaving a tail at the beginning and end of that section of stitches to weave in and/or work over.
Weaving in the ends can be tedious, but well worth it if done securely. When possible, weave the ends in several directions so they don’t worm their way out when the item is used extensively, like an afghan. ALWAYS weave in the ends in a section of the same color, NEVER in a section of another color!
When working from a chart, each square represents one stitch. If the chart has many rows and many stitches in each row, print out sections of the chart on separate pieces of paper and tape them together. If needed, enlarge the chart to do this. The chart for my Majestic Butterfly Afghan is broken up into 4 “quarter” charts for this purpose (top left, bottom left, top right and bottom right). If the chart was just one chart on the page, the squares would be too small to see accurately. With the chart broken up into 4 charts, the squares are much easier to see, since the squares are larger.
One thing I HIGHLY recommend when following a crochet chart is to use a magnetic board. I’ve used mine for decades now! It’s great to use for all kinds of charted crochet projects and makes it so much easier to keep my place, even on small projects. On large projects like my Majestic Butterfly Afghan, it’s a MUST (in my opinion)! If the chart is too big for the magnetic board, you can mark off the squares/rows that you’ve worked with a sharpie, pen or pencil instead of using the board. I have 2 magnetic boards now and if needed, I could place them side by side to make a larger magnetic board (if working at a table and not in my living room chair, which is where I typically crochet at home). Here are just a few of the styles of magnetic boards available on Amazon:
The Majestic Butterfly Afghan is a large project that can be easier to work at a large table, such as a dining room table or crochet/craft table. It’s easier to work right-side rows while seated at one side of the table and wrong-side rows while seated at the other side of the table, minimizing the need to turn the afghan at the end of each row. Simply move yourself to the other side of the table instead (it’s good to get up and move anyway, so this helps us get some exercise during the project). It also eliminates the need to keep moving the multiple bobbins of yarn and straightening them out across the row! Another option would be to work the afghan at the table on top of a towel. When you finish a row, simply rotate the towel (with the bobbins) so you can work the next row.
Go HERE to purchase the Majestic Butterfly Afghan pattern and get started on your next masterpiece crochet project!
I hope you’ll give Intarsia Crochet a try. Start with a small, easy project and work up to this Majestic Butterfly Afghan or a similar intarsia/graphgan project. You’ll be amazed at what beauty you can create!
If you love Mosaic Crochet as much as me, you’ll really enjoy learning this new technique!
I was introduced to this technique a few years ago by a lady named Stephanie on Ravelry. She had an afghan that was crocheted by her great grandmother in the 1980’s. She couldn’t figure out how it was made and emailed me photos. I looked at them and figured out how the afghan was made. I thought this technique was so unique and fun, so I decided to share it with all of you through some new patterns and a free YouTube video to go along with the patterns.
Do you love the look of reversible mosaic crochet projects? I certainly do! I love having projects with two “pretty” sides! And this technique is so much fun! You get a light side and a dark side with this Alternate Spike SC Mosaic Crochet technique.
To learn this new technique, check out my YouTube video.
And if you love this technique as much as I do, check out the patterns I’ve created for this fabulous technique! The 3 patterns I’ve created are my “Chain Links Scarf”, my “Geometric Mosaic Hot Pads” and my “Heart Mosaic Hot Pads”. Each of the hot pads patterns actually contains 2 designs for one low price.
I hope you enjoy learning this new Mosaic Crochet technique!
I’ve enjoyed doing the Thermal Stitch for quite a few years now. Last month, Heather (on my YouTube channel) asked if I could make a video showing how to do a potholder in Thermal Stitch with 2 different colored sides. I thought about it and I’ve been playing around with it for a few weeks now. However, I took it to another level! I’m happy to introduce the marriage of Tapestry Crochet with the Thermal Stitch in my new YouTube video and my new Tapestry Thermal Stitch Potholders and Coasters patterns!
If you’ve ever done the Thermal Stitch, you know that you insert your hook in a completely different place than in regular crochet. And if you’ve ever done Tapestry Crochet, you know that you carry the unused yarn under the stitches you’re working and change colors across the row, as needed. So when I thought about doing color changes in Thermal Stitch, I immediately thought about using the Tapestry Crochet technique! And it works!!!
If you’d like to take your Thermal Stitch projects to the next level with designs on one or both sides, watch my YouTube video.
And if you’d like to give Tapestry Thermal Stitch a try, check out my new Tapestry Thermal Stitch Potholders and Coasters patterns on the crochet patterns page.
If you enjoy crocheting projects with the Thermal Stitch, but don’t know how to change colors and carry them up the side edge when you use more than one color in your project, check out my new YouTube video demonstrating how to do this. It’s much better to carry the yarn up the edge until you need that color again instead of cutting the yarn each time you change colors and weaving in all of the extra ends (and who likes weaving in ends anyway?).
If you haven’t learned the Thermal Stitch yet, check out my YouTube video to learn this fabulous technique, which is great for making thick potholders.
Have you ever wondered if there are more techniques to learn in crochet? Have you ever wished you could work all right-side rows, but you’re not ambidextrous? I’m not, either. But I learned to crochet backwards so all the rows in my crochet project will be right-side rows.
You may ask “Why would you want to do that?” Well, I found a fabulous Tapestry Crochet potholder pattern by Raffamusa that I wanted to crochet, but I didn’t want the jagged edges of the design on the potholder. I wanted more smooth design edges. So I decided to give backwards crocheting a try! And I’m so glad I did! Here’s a look at this fabulous potholder pattern:
Nana’s Kitchen Potholder pattern by Raffamusa Designs
Here’s the potholder I crocheted with this fabulous pattern:
My Nana’s Kitchen Potholder
What do you think? Isn’t this a wonderful crochet pattern? You can find this pattern on her website here or in her Ravelry store here.
Anyway, I decided to do a YouTube video demonstrating how to crochet backwards. You can watch that video here.
I think this is a great technique to have in our crochet tool boxes! I wasn’t great at crocheting backwards when I started. But I improved with practice! And boy, did I ever get lots of practice! The first time I crocheted this potholder, I ran out of the blue yarn just 11 stitches before the end of the edging! I wasn’t that happy with my tension in the project because it got tighter towards the top and was loose at the bottom. Since I had this yarn in my stash for probably 10 years or so and couldn’t find the same dye lot, let alone the same color, I decided I’d better frog the whole thing and start again. But I decided to use 1 size smaller crochet hook the 2nd time so I wouldn’t run out of yarn. And it worked! I’m very happy with the finished potholder and I think it looks fabulous on the tile in my kitchen!
What are your thoughts on crocheting backwards? Have you seen it done before? Do you regularly crochet backwards because that’s how you learned? Did you know there was a difference in how you can insert your crochet hook (from front to back or from back to front)?
Please leave me a comment and let me know your thoughts on crocheting backwards.
I’ve been wanting to film a video to teach the Thermal Stitch for quite a while and I finally have one for you. But first, a little background on how/where I learned this fabulous stitch.
I first learned the Thermal Stitch from Darla Fanton at the 2008 CGOA Conference in Manchester, NH. Darla is a great teacher and I learned a lot in that class. However, life got in the way and I never pursued doing anything with the Thermal Stitch.
Fast forward to around 2015 when a good crochet friend named Jackie showed me the thick potholder she had made from a free pattern on the internet. She shared the link to the free pattern (by Heather Tucker of Stitchery Project) and taught me the stitch (which I had somehow forgotten from Darla’s class). I was immediately hooked! I’ve been making Thermal Stitch Potholders ever since! They’re so easy to make once you learn where to insert your hook! It’s just simple rows of single crochet, which is pretty mindless (sometimes I need a mindless project!).
Thermal Stitch Potholder
One thing I changed in Heather’s pattern was the placement of the hanging loop. Heather makes her hanging loop at the bottom of the potholder. I decided I wanted to make my hanging loop at the top of the potholder. The reason for this is sometimes I want to make a hot pad without a hanging loop instead of a potholder. So I just don’t work the hanging loop at all. Since I changed Heather’s free pattern, I decided to type up my version of this potholder as a free pattern. You can download my free pattern here.
You can find Heather’s free potholder pattern (named “The Best Crocheted Potholder”) here.
The potholders are economical to make. When I see a sale on worsted weight cotton yarn, I stock up on it. This makes the potholders about $1 each, which I love!
These potholders make great gifts! I’ve given them to friends and family for Christmas and/or birthdays, as “thank you” gifts, and as wedding (or bridal shower) gifts, as well.
To learn the Thermal Stitch, watch my new YouTube video here.
I hope you enjoy crocheting these potholders as much as I do!
Do you love the look of Mosaic Crochet, but wish it was reversible? Well now it is, with no extra work!
I’ve been having fun with a hybrid style of Mosaic Crochet using Spike DC stitches (SPdc for short). With this style of Mosaic Crochet, you still work 1 row of each color and each row on the right side, like Overlay Mosaic Crochet. You work chain spaces, like in Inset Mosaic Crochet, but you only work 1 row of each color. Instead of working your dc, drop down dc, Anchored dc (or whatever you want to call them) in front of the other stitches, you work your Spike DC stitch “around” the other stitches, which makes your projects reversible!
Reversible Sashiko Mosaic Crochet Rug
I also have a brand new Mosaic Crochet pattern using the Spike DC Mosaic Crochet technique. This pattern is my Reversible Sashiko Mosaic Crochet Rug. It uses some Lion Brand Thick & Quick yarn, along with some Lion Brand Hometown USA yarn that I’ve had in my stash for several years.
When I saw this Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick yarn in the Hudson Bay color at my local Walmart store, I knew I had to design something special with it. I used this yarn, along with 3 coordinating solid colors of Lion Brand Hometown USA to design and crochet my Reversible Sashiko Mosaic Crochet Rug pattern. This pattern shows the contrast between the solid, dark colors and the lighter, multi-colored yarn perfectly!
You may ask me why I used the word “Sashiko” in the name of this pattern. Well, I’ve been looking at and playing/designing with Japanese Sashiko embroidery patterns for several years now and I LOVE them!!! They’re mostly geometric, which I LOVE! I’ve got more Sashiko crochet patterns in the works, so stay tuned for those in the near future. I’ve even started learning to do Sashiko embroidery! What fun!!!
So back to my new rug pattern. It’s made with 5 skeins of yarn: 2 skeins of the LB Wool-Ease Thick & Quick and 3 skeins of the LB Hometown USA (1 skein in each of the 3 solid coordinating colors). I used a size “N” crochet hook, which is 10 mm. I started and ended each row, turning the tails into fringe after crocheting all the rows of the rug. I absolutely love this rug being reversible!
To learn this technique, watch my new YouTube video, where I demonstrate the Spike DC Mosaic Crochet technique.
I also created a FREE download for a Spike DC Mosaic Crochet swatch that I demonstrate in the YouTube video. You can download the free chart, along with instructions for working the swatch with either my COM technique (with very little tails) or with traditional Mosaic Crochet, starting and ending each row (with 2 tails for each row).
I hope you’ll give this Spike DC Mosaic Crochet technique a try very soon. It’s a fabulous technique for crocheting reversible Mosaic Crochet projects with no extra effort!
There are several styles/methods for doing Mosaic Crochet. In my previous Mosaic Crochet video, I taught you how to do Overlay Mosaic Crochet. In my new video, I’ll teach you everything you need to know to successfully do the Inset Mosaic Crochet method.
Inset Mosaic Crochet video
Inset Mosaic Crochet differs from Overlay Mosaic Crochet because Inset is worked with 2 rows of each color instead of 1. Because of that, you won’t need to finish off each row, creating tails/ends to deal with by weaving them in, turning them into fringe or crocheting a double border.
Both Overlay and Inset Mosaic Crochet are worked with 2 contrasting colors of yarn. You can use a DK weight, worsted weight or whatever weight yarn you desire.
This is a fabulous method of Mosaic Crochet! So if you’d like to learn it, check out my YouTube video. I also have a FREE download for the swatch charts that I used in the video, along with written directions for the swatch. You can find that download on my free patterns page.
I’m pleased to announce that I’ve just released a new crochet video on my YouTube channel to teach the Tapestry Crochet technique. This video was a lot of fun to put together! I really like this technique because it’s one of the techniques that uses more than one color in a row or round! Plus the designs you can create with it are endless! Check out my new Tapestry Crochet video here.
With this technique, you use 2 or more colors in each row/round. You change colors, according to a chart, and “carry” the unused color(s) underneath the stitches being worked. It’s a great technique to use when you don’t want to have long strands of yarn on the back of your work!
This new Tapestry Crochet technique video teaches you how to begin and end rows of Tapestry Crochet, carry the yarn, change colors and make the fringe. All while having fun making the snowflake coaster project that’s included in the video. The Snowflake Coaster chart is available for free on my Free Patterns page.
I love designing small projects for learning a new technique. There’s nothing like being able to finish a crochet project quickly, all while successfully learning a new technique! And small projects are great for practicing a new technique. If you make a mistake, your huge project isn’t ruined!
If you enjoy the this technique, you may want to make something larger than a coaster in this technique. That’s where my “Stained Glass Snowflake Scarf” and “It Takes All Colors Snowflakes Afghan” patterns come into play! Both of these designs use the exact same Tapestry Crochet technique that I’m teaching in this new video.
Stained Glass Snowflake Scarf
It Takes All Colors Snowflakes Afghan
If you haven’t tried the technique before, what are you waiting for? It’s a wonderful technique with many fabulous projects that can be made from it! Check out my new Tapestry Crochet video here.
And speaking of Tapestry Crochet, I bought a new Tapestry Crochet book last week called “Colourful Wayuu Bags to Crochet” by Rianne de Graaf. You can see this book on Amazon here. Rianne has designed some really pretty bags in the Tapestry Crochet technique. These bags are so cool! Rianne even teaches how to make the straps and cords for the bags in this book.
I hope you’ve enjoyed this look at Tapestry Crochet and will give it a try. You’ll be glad you did!
